If you only have time for one activity in Sidemen, make it this one. It’s not just a gorgeous walk, it’s a glimpse into local Balinese life, which is not so easy to come by as a tourist nowadays. If you’ve been to Canggu, Uluwatu and even Ubud and left feeling that you’ve only experienced the glamourised version of Bali, then this walk through the rice terraces of Sidemen is for you.
You will walk beside fields of chilis and marigolds, passing the irrigation channels that are also used for bathing. People work the land and use the same paths you will be walking on to transport huge bundles of crops on their heads.
This could all sound a little voyeuristic, but that’s not how it feels when you are there. You are welcomed to walk here and every ‘om swastiastu’ was met with such beautiful smiles.
By the fourth time we came to walk the trail, we’d made friends with the local coconut vendors and sitting to have a drink and a chat with them was one of the highlights of the walk.
Here’s all the details on our favourite thing to do in Sidemen.
The Sidemen Rice Terrace Walk
Where to start the walk and the entry fee
The walk begins at the small wooden kiosk you can see here on Google maps, it’s around a 5 minute drive from the main street where many of the hotels are located.
When we first started visiting Sidemen in 2012, access to the rice fields was free. However, there were no proper walking tracks.
Now you do have to pay an entry fee but it’s only 25k IDR (AUD $2, or USD $1.40, plus 2k IDR extra if paying by card) which is a bit of a steal for the fact there’s now a lovely new track in place which allows you to see so much more of the area. The entry fee also goes towards supporting the local community.
We did it every single day we were in Sidemen and when we left I missed it! It’s one of the things I look forward to most when visiting Sidemen.
The best time of day to do the walk
For maximum enjoyment, I would come early morning or late afternoon. My preferred time was around an hour before sunset as there were hardly ever any other tourists around and it was much more enjoyable without the intense sun beating down on you.
The added bonus is the UV is gone so you also don’t have to lather yourself in sun cream which is never nice in Bali’s high humidity!
However, this is the time that a lot of people will be bathing in the irrigation channels, so always be careful with your camera in these areas.
Though I preferred walking late afternoon, mornings tend to be clearer and if you have a clear morning I would do the walk then as there are several spots you can see the mighty Agung which is always a special sight.
The Sidemen Rice Terrace Walk Track Notes
The stats
Distance: 2.15 km circuit
Elevation gain: 25m
Difficulty: Easy
Trailhead: Sidemen Rice Terrace Trailhead
Summary: The Sidemen Rice Terrace Walk is all on a maintained path, but it’s rustic in places and the paths by the irrigation channels are very narrow. You’ll follow makeshift wooden signs which guide you around the almost entirely flat circuit.
There are a few stairs but never more than a handful at a time so the walk feels very easy. A couple of the stairs and bridges are a little rickety, but even if you don’t like uneven terrain these sections are minor.
We walked after a lot of rain over many days and the paths held up well, though I am not sure if it would get very muddy during the full brunt of the rainy season.
The walk
From the entry booth you head past a cute little cafe with great rice terrace views and straight alongside one of the paddies.
You’ll quickly come to the irrigation channels and this is the main area where people may be bathing. The flat path follows the water on one side and fields of crops on the other.
We spotted fat red chilis and lots of marigold flowers, but there are no doubt dozens more we didn’t identify.
Sometimes you are walking on a dirt path and other times it’s easier to hop onto the side of the water channels which took me right back to the many falaj walks we did in Oman.
The scenery is simply stunning with all the fields interspersed with wooden huts and distant mountain views.
Roughly 785m in to the walk you will reach a small warung, Panorama Restaurant, where you can buy ice creams among many other things, though we always save ourselves for the fresh coconuts at the tiny stand a little further on.
You will then pass some pretty fabulous looking villas you can rent with beautiful tropical gardens and superb views.
I thought they looked amazing, although Joe pointed out it might feel a little strange as you do look on to some local huts in the fields from your stunning, expensive villa.
At the 1km mark the track heads left and takes you down some steps cut into the mud and alongside more fields.
From this section you will get your first Agung views - well hopefully, depending on if she decides to grace you with her presence. It is a somewhat distant view but special nonetheless.
The track bears left again and you will quickly come to a rickety staircase and then a narrow path alongside another water channel which creates a small waterfall.
Part of this section had fallen apart on our visit and large bags filled with stones had been put in place to help you across.
This may be fixed in time, but if not, with care it’s very easy. I went slowly the first time but skipped across it on subsequent walks.
You’ll then head right and come to our favourite coconut stand (1.3km into the walk). The coconuts are not refrigerated, which I do prefer, but sitting amongst the paddies with a fresh coconut probably picked a few metres away is very satisfying.
The family who run the warung are also lovely. We didn’t have enough cash the first time we visited (a coconut costs 30k IDR, AUD $2.40 or USD $1.65) and the lady let us have the coconut for 10k less. When I gave her the extra 10k the next day she tried so hard not to accept it!
After the warung the path continues left, with more Agung views if you are lucky.
The next 600m are pretty much flat as you pass through the last of the crop fields and bear left heading towards the road.
Once you reach the road you turn left and have a minute or so’s stroll back to the entry booth and car parking area.
The total circuit is just over 2km and could be walked in less than 30 minutes, but you’ll probably spend a bit longer if you stop for photos and a drink.
Where to stay in Sidemen
Wapa Di Ume Sidemen
We’ve stayed at Wapa Di Ume four times now and it’s truly one of our happy places. We’ve always stayed in the cheapest room (the Lanai room) and it is fantastic, with a truly unforgettable view.
The sunken bathtub was also a highlight and of course the pools and river access.
The staff are lovely and can’t do enough for you - they even bring breakfast to your room if requested (at no extra charge).
You can check out the reviews and prices on Booking.com for:
Maha Neka Homestay
Maha Neka is the first place we stayed in Sidemen and a gem in the budget category. It’s a local homestay and is simple, but with a lot of nice touches.
There are only two bungalows, so it’s a really nice and quiet place to stay. Every morning you are served breakfast on the porch of your room, overlooking the epic Mount Agung, a very special view.
The rooms are large, clean and comfortable, albeit with the typical firm beds. Despite the hot weather, the rooms stayed cool at night as there were gaps to let the cool air in, but a good mosquito net around the bed stopped the bugs.
The owners are also really nice with a couple of children who are playful and friendly. They also rent motorbikes and can give tips on what to see around the local area.
You can check out the reviews and prices on Booking.com for:
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