Fitzroy Falls is the most well known of all the waterfalls in the Southern Highlands. It’s a truly spectacular 80m cascade which thunders over the side of a steep cliff. It’s at its most captivating after heavy rain, but has a reasonable flow year round.
There’s plenty to see at Fitzroy Falls, including lookouts (some of which are better than others), two easy walks and even the opportunity to see a platypus. However, if you’re feeling a little adventurous, you can also return after dark for a real treat. Those that do will be rewarded when Fitzroy Falls reveals it’s nighttime secret - a hidden glow worm colony!
Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Fitzroy Falls, by day and by night.
The best lookouts at Fitzroy Falls
There are many lookouts at Fitzroy Falls, but not all have waterfall views. The valley views are also incredible, but if it’s waterfall vistas you’re after, these are the best of the best.
Note that if you’re keen on photography, try to visit on a cloudy day. On a bright sunny day you can get some really harsh shadows that cut across the falls.
The main viewpoint
Distance from the car park: 150m
My personal favourite lookout is located along the West Rim Trail and just so happens to be the quickest and easiest to get to. It’s just a 150m flat paved walk to reach the first view of the falls and you can see the upper falls at close quarters.
It encourages you to look right down into the valley floor and it really is a staggering view. It’s not however, the easiest point to photograph the whole of the upper falls, that one comes next.
Jersey Lookout
Distance from the car park: 550m (400m beyond the main lookout)
Even if you don’t enjoy walking, it’s well worth continuing on to the second lookout along the West Rim Trail to get a head on view of the upper falls, and the pool it cascades into. It’s still an easy walk but there are a few stairs.
The rest of the lookouts along the West Rim Trail offer great views, but they are either not of Fitzroy Falls, or are a much more distant vista. We love the whole walk and will give more details on it below, but in terms of those who only want to walk a short distance, Jersey Lookout is when you can turn back.
Warrawong Lookout
Distance from the car park: 1.2km
The Warrawong Lookout is located along the East Rim Trail and doesn’t connect with the two mentioned above.
Although not quite as good as the views along the West Rim Track, it is my third favourite vantage point for Fitzroy Falls, it’s also considerably quieter than any lookout along the West Rim. It’s an easy walk through the bush to get there and then you’ll arrive at a platform offering a good view of Fitzroy Falls side on.
Fitzroy Falls walking tracks
The West Rim Track
Distance: 4.2km return (including visiting every lookout)
Elevation: 120m
Difficulty: Easy
If you want to see the best of the Fitzroy Falls area then the West Rim Track is the way to go. There are so many lookouts along the way - many more than are actually mentioned on the parks signs.
Some offer views of Fitzroy Falls, one of Twin Falls (which needs significant rain to be impressive), the Grotto which is a small waterfall that tumbles over a cave, and many valley views too.
The walk is easy, but not entirely flat. There are some stairs to climb, including a few around the Grotto which are uneven and tend to be damp. It’s well worth it though and the further you go, the less people you will share the views with.
The final lookout, Renown Viewpoint, offers a fabulous view of Fitzroy Falls, including the lower falls. It’s from quite a distance, but still very impressive.
The East Rim Track
Distance: 6.3km return
Elevation: 260m
Difficulty: Easy
The East Rim Track is a longer walk which is predominantly through the bush. Although you do get a great view of Fitzroy Falls about 1/3 of the way in and a partial view a little later, this walk is mainly about the valley views.
The valley is gorgeous with scenery reminiscent of the Blue Mountains.
The track is much quieter and has plenty of birdlife, which gives it a really peaceful feel. This is not a walk to do for waterfall lovers in particular, but it’s definitely a lovely bush walk.
The track is never steep but does have some ups and downs. As with the West Rim Trail, it’s well manicured and doesn’t have any tricky terrain.
The Wildflower Walk
Distance: 2.4km return (if you walk the East Rim Track you will cover this one in full)
Elevation: Mainly flat
Difficulty: Easy
The Wildflower Walk is basically the start of the East Rim Track and takes you as far as the best view of Fitzroy Falls along the trail. It’s a walk which is at its best in spring when the wildflowers are in bloom. Having said that if flowers are your number one priority, the season is pretty limited.
We visited at the beginning of spring which was too early for the majority of flowers (we only saw a handful of tiny orchids) and towards the end of the season and saw plenty of different flowers, but all in small quantities.
I guess what I am trying to say is that although in mid spring there might be many more than I have seen, I wouldn’t come expecting major super-blooms or anything.
I think this is a more subtle wildflower walk, but as it takes you past some great lookouts too, then it doesn’t really matter if you don’t quite get the timing right with the flowers.
The Grotto
Although the Grotto is technically just one lookout along the West Rim Track, I am giving it it’s own section in the post because there’s something a little bit special about it.
By day you’ll find a small waterfall which tumbles over the side of a large overhang. It’s a great little spot and well worth seeing in the daylight. However, it’s by night that this place really comes alive!
We’d visited Fitzroy Falls more times than I can count before I realised that the opening hours online didn’t apply to the walking trails, only to the visitor centre. We’d previously discussed how similar the Grotto looked to spots we’ve found glow worms in the Blue Mountains and wondered if we might find them here too.
We recently decided it was time to visit at night and find out! Our nighttime trip paid off as we started to see glow worms twinkling on the damp ferny cliff walls a couple of hundred metres before we reached the Grotto.
It’s always a special experience to see glow worms and especially when you get to enjoy the spectacle all to yourself!
Although you’ll see a sprinkling of glow worms along the latter part of the trail, the majority are located in the overhang itself. The best way to view this kind of dell is to walk to the far side of the overhang and look back.
From here you’ll see strings of glow worms illuminate the walls and ceiling like fairy lights! However, sadly at the Grotto there is a railing which means the viewing is not as good as at other glow worm dells.
Having said that, I always love seeing glow worms and enjoy a good night walk, so for me it was still a special experience. The walk is only 650m each way and easy (just watch for those damp stairs as you get closer to the Grotto) and if you love a night walk like I do, then I’d recommend a visit.
Remember to turn your torch off and let your eyes adjust for at least five minutes. You’ll see more glow worms the longer you wait. Viewing is best in the warmer months of December - March.
When you visit at night the best place to park is Gwen Road (the exact location can be found by clicking here). It cuts off quite a bit of the walk to the Grotto (which is why it’s just 650m each way) and though there is only room for two cars, as I have never seen anything written or heard anyone talk about this glow worm colony, I can’t imagine there is ever anyone else there!
If you’re very lucky you might also spot wombats, although we personally didn’t find any.
Tips for the best glow worm experience
Make sure you leave it at least an hour after sunset. It can be tempting to head into the bush just after sunset, but you really need full darkness to see the majority of the glow worms. You’ll see some earlier but only a fraction of what’s really there. The darker the better.
As mentioned, you need to turn all light off to enjoy the glow worms, not just for your eyes to adjust but also because you shouldn’t shine light on glow worms. It can stop them feeding and also encourage them to stop glowing which in turn ruins the experience for you. It’s really important not to interfere with their natural behaviour, or there could be another disaster like at Helensburgh Tunnel when the colony was nearly wiped out. Please protect them and enjoy the experience as it should be, in darkness.
For photography bring a tripod and plan on taking long exposures. You don’t need any light to photograph them.
I’ve used a Sirui for the past 2 years and found it to be brilliant for photographing glow worms - light enough to carry, but sturdy enough for a crisp shot. You can find out all about the one I use by clicking here.
Getting to Fitzroy Falls
Fitzroy Falls is located in Morton National Park, around 140km and a 1 hour 40 minute drive from Sydney. Fitzroy Falls is 23km and roughly a 20 minute drive from Bowral and 17km and 15 minutes from Kangaroo Valley.
You do have to pay to use the car park if you don’t have an NSW parks pass. Since we’ve been visiting the falls the price has changed a number of times, currently it’s $4 to park for as long as you like, but don’t quote us on that!
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