When you think of walking in Exmoor, you probably think of sweeping moorland or cliff top ocean views, but one of our favourite walks is through ancient oak woodland to a small emerald plunge pool.
The forest is wonderfully atmospheric, with more than a hint of Wistman’s Wood about it, yet you won’t have to share it with anyone else.
You’ll walk through gnarled moss laden branches and fern covered riverbanks before arriving at the small cascade pool with crystal clear water.
Here’s everything you need to know about the trail.
The Horner Wood Circular Walk
The stats
Distance: 2.25 mile (3.6km) circuit
Elevation gain: 150m
Difficulty: Moderate
Trailhead: Stoke Pero
Summary: You can choose to walk to the Horner Wood Pool via one of two routes, or use both creating a circuit which is our preferred option.
One of the routes has a fairly steep descent down through woodland on a stony path, while the other has better terrain and is less steep (the steeper section is at the very end on a quiet country lane) however, it does have 12 minor creek crossings.
Now while that does sound like a lot, most of them can be hopped over in a just a few steps, and all have stones to use to keep dry boots in all but very wet conditions.
Both routes are beautiful and it’s really worthwhile to make the circuit - unless you really don’t like the sound of so many creek crossings.
Starting the trail
The walk begins at the small parking area beside Stoke Pero Church (full parking details below).
It’s well worth heading into the tiny church which dates back to the 1200’s and has lots of atmospheric candles in lieu of modern lighting.
There’s also a walking boot with the stamp attached for those hiking the Pilgrims Trail, which is not something we’ve seen in a church before!
The trail to the wood continues past the church and through the gate directly ahead which looks like private property, but access is permitted.
After passing through the gate you’ll see a second gate ahead and this takes you onto the footpath which leads to the wood. It begins with a tree tunnel which did a great job of sheltering us from the high winds, as did the rest of woodland throughout the trail.
Descending through Horner Wood
At the 170m mark you’ll pass through another gate and the path bears slightly left.
You’ll follow the grassy path for less than 100m at which point you’ll see the trail leading left towards another gate. You’ll pass through the gate and enter the glorious old oak woodland.
You now begin descending gently through the gnarled oaks before reaching a sign at the 500m mark where you will head left.
The path begins to get steeper and it’s a mix of dirt track and some rubbly stones. It wasn’t particularly slippery but did require a bit of care in places.
The gradient slackens at the 0.6 mile (1km) mark and the track becomes easy once again. Roughly 200m later, or 0.7 miles/1.2km into the walk you will come to a small footbridge and cross it, following the path left.
The next 550m to the pool are either a very gentle uphill or flat and just before you reach the pool you’ll see another footbridge. You can cross it and follow the path right, upstream, for a few metres to the pool.
Swimming at Horner Wood Pool
The small cascade pool is surrounded by beautiful woodland keeping it relatively shady even on a sunny day. The water has a stunning emerald hue and the clarity is excellent.
Entering the water is easy as you can just step off the pebbly area surrounding the pool and straight into shallow water.
The pool is relatively shallow throughout, up to chest height at most and that was in the middle. It’s quite small, definitely a plunge pool rather than a swimming spot, but incredibly pretty and serene. The water is cool but not freezing in summer, at least by my standards!
It’s a fabulous place for a quiet dip before continuing the walk along my favourite leg of the circuit.
Completing the circuit: through the ferny wonderland
I am so glad we decided to try the other route back or we would never have experienced the ferny wonderland that reminded me so much of my beloved New Zealand.
To follow our route you head a few metres back from the pool, but instead of crossing the footbridge, take the path leading away from the river on the right. You will still walk beside the water, but a small tributary, rather than the main river which the pool is located on.
You will almost immediately enter a spectacular ferny forest which has real Lord of the Rings vibes. The dirt path is in good condition and the terrain is easy, but for the multiple creek crossings. This route has a wild feel with every shade of green imaginable surrounding you at all times.
You’ll reach the first creek crossing less than 200m after leaving the pool and you will come to 11 more, roughly every 50-100m after the first. Some are very small and can pretty much be stepped over in one unless it’s been very wet. Others are larger and require using the rocks as stepping stones.
None are difficult as spacing of the rocks is generally very good, though you do have to trust stepping on wet rocks. To be honest, even if you slipped you would only be in ankle deep water at most so it wouldn’t be a big deal, but you will likely make all the crossings without getting wet boots.
The section of track between the pool and the road lasts for approximately 0.75 miles (1.2km) and it’s one of the loveliest forests in England in my opinion.
So lovely I didn’t begrudge that the final 500m was on the road, which you’ll reach 1.9 miles (3.1km) into the walk. When you reach the road you will turn left and follow it sharply uphill for 200m.
After this you will continue heading uphill but the gradient is much less steep. The road is very pretty and we didn’t see a single car so it wasn’t too bad an ending to the trail.
You’ll reach a large gate you need to pass through just before you see the church and then you are moments away from the parking area.
Where to park for the walk to Horner Wood
There is no dedicated car park for this walk, but room for several cars to pull fully off the road at the lay-by you can find at these coordinates: 51.1760479, -3.5808638. It’s located in Stoke Pero, postcode TA24 8JT, Somerset.
There are no facilities at the parking area, church, or anywhere else along the trail.
It’s around a 20 minute drive from Minehead.
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