Rio Agrio is a gorgeous waterfall with wild jungle vibes. The walk to reach it is unlike any other in Bajos Del Toro. You’ll head through a huge fern covered gorge, which if you’re lucky enough to visit on a misty day, really feels like you’ve strayed into Jurassic Park. Ironic given it’s next door to Dinoland!
The falls don’t have blue water like many others in the area, and I initially thought I wouldn’t enjoy it as much, but it was utterly spectacular and far exceeded my expectations. It’s also a pretty easy walk, so it’s a good one to do when you fancy something a little more leisurely.
Given it’s fed by the most acidic river in Costa Rica, you can’t swim here, but just down the road you’ll find one of the most sensational swimming spots in the area, Pozas Celestes (owned by the same people as the waterfall).
Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Rio Agrio Waterfall (Catarata Rio Agrio).
The walk to Rio Agrio Waterfall
The stats
Distance: 2.3km round trip (extra 450m return for the viewpoint)
Elevation gain: 100m (this includes the viewpoint)
Difficulty: Easy
The walk to Rio Agrio does have inclines at points, but it’s never overly steep. The path is well graded and the terrain is not slippery or muddy - in the dry season - in the wet it could be a very different story!
If you choose to visit the mirador (lookout) it requires a short steep climb, but visiting the waterfall doesn’t involve any steep sections.
Starting the trail
The first part of the walk is a little underwhelming, but it gets so much better the further you go. From the car park you’ll follow the sign for Dinoland, before quickly picking up signs for the catarata (waterfall).
You’ll start on a gravel track which soon becomes a gravel road, and after 250m reach a second ticket office, and the junction with Dinoland.
You’ll head right for the waterfall. From here, and for around half the trail, you’ll hear the sound of the dinosaurs in Dinoland, but it’s somewhat fitting given the scenery to come!
After 150m from the second ticket office, you’ll reach a junction between the waterfall and the lookout.
The short detour to the Mirador
The lookout is just 250m away, but in the opposite direction to the waterfall. This is the only steep section of the walk, and to be honest, pretty underwhelming.
There are a pair of wings you can take a photo with in front of the view, but if you’re not into that, I wouldn’t necessarily say it’s worth it.
It’s very steep and though short, the view of the surrounding mountains feels quite distant. By Costa Rican standards, it doesn’t have the wow factor.
It does however have a picnic table up there, so it would make for a nice lunch stop.
The path was in the midst of being upgraded when we visited, it will all be concrete soon and there’s a metal railing if needed. Once you’ve checked out the view, you return to the junction again.
Entering the rainforest
Once back at the junction you’ll begin walking gently downhill. You start to head into the forest and closer to some of the dinosaurs!
The further you walk through the forest, the more beautiful it becomes, getting denser and greener. The path is a good dirt track, and in the dry season, wasn’t the least bit slippery - it was damp, but not muddy.
The forest begins to feel like proper jungle, with hanging vines and epiphytes galore.
Just over 400m from the junction, you’ll reach a bridge over the river. The view is stunning, with the cliff wall, green river and masses of moss covered rocks.
It’s from here that the walk starts to feel like Jurassic Park territory.
Walking through Jurassic Park
You’ll continue through the rainforest, alongside the river, which combined with all the sounds of nature, make for one captivating walk. It’s one of those places that just feels good for the soul.
It’s also an easy walk, so you don’t have to be worried about terrain, and can really immerse yourself in the incredible atmosphere.
Just 150m beyond the first bridge, you’ll come to a second. This one is even more spectacular.
The landscape feels vast and primeval. It’s one of the most beautiful sections of any track we walked in Bajos Del Toro, and I imagine all of Costa Rica - although we’re still only partway through our trip as I write this!
Moments after crossing the second bridge you’ll reach a third, and this is the end of the offical track. It offers a good view of the waterfall.
Although this is the end of the maintained track, there is a sign saying you can continue at your own risk.
Catarata Rio Agrio
At the end of the maintained trail you’re just 40m away from the very foot of the falls. There are many benches where you can sit and admire the waterfall, and we sat for well over an hour just taking it all in.
The waterfall flows into a canyon and you can sit fully surrounded by tall cliff walls, dense foliage, and of course, the thundering waterfall.
To get to the very foot of the falls you’ll have to walk over a few rocks, but even though damp, they weren’t slippery, and it only takes a few minutes.
It’s a gorgeous waterfall, but for me, what makes it extra special is the setting. I feel like I’ve already waxed lyrical about it, but trust me, it’s one you have to see for yourself. And on that note, if possible, I would recommend a cloudy day.
The cloud and mist really add to that otherworldly atmosphere. It would be beautiful in the sunshine, but it wouldn’t have quite the same vibe.
Once you’re ready to leave the waterfall, you follow the same trail back. There are small uphill sections, but nothing too strenuous. If you have time, we’d highly recommend also visiting Pozas Celestes.
Visiting Pozas Celestes
Pozas Celestes was my eleventh swimming spot in Bajos Del Toro, and it’s easily one of the best. In fact, for a proper swim, rather than a dip, it is the very best.
Not only is it exquisitely beautiful, with turquoise water, silvery cliff walls and lush rainforest, it’s also a relaxing place to swim.
That’s because there is no current and very few rocks in the water. It’s easy to get into the pool and then you don’t need to worry about bashing into rocks once inside the water.
The walk to reach it is also easy.
I won’t go into all the details now, because we have a whole guide on the pools, which you can read here.
Other attractions at Rio Agrio
There’s a second swimming hole, Tobogan, and Dinoland, also owned by the same people as Rio Agrio. We tried to visit Tobogan, but it was absolutely bucketing down with rain, so we’re saving that one for another time. Dinoland is obviously for kids, so we didn’t check it out : )
Rio Agrio opening hours and entry fee
At time of writing Rio Agrio is open every day between 7am and 5pm. If you want to visit Rio Agrio only, the entry fee is 4000 colones (approx USD $7.20). If you want to visit with Pozas Celestes, you’ll pay 6000 colones for both, which is a 1000 colones discount.
Parking is free and the trail to Rio Agrio Waterfall begins at the car park. To access Pozas Celestes you need to take the free shuttle, or walk a little distance along the road (uphill on the way back).
Getting to Rio Agrio
Rio Agrio is located at Dinoland in Bajos Del Toro, and this is where you’ll park your car. There’s a cafe and toilets here.
The drive is roughly 69km and 2 hours from San Jose. There are some very steep and windy mountain roads. with no safety barriers so drive slowly - you pretty much have to anyway due to the gradient! There are many potholes along the way.
It’s a similar distance but a little quicker to drive to La Fortuna, the roads are not steep and there are less potholes (but still plenty as you arrive at or leave Bajos).
Both these roads are paved and you do not need a 4WD, but you do need a car with a bit of grunt to make it up the super steep hills from San Jose.
There is currently no public transport to the pools, so you really do want your own car unless you are going to take a tour.
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