Franz Josef is a dream destination for anyone that loves huge dramatic landscapes. The obvious draw card is the glacier itself, but you’ll be equally impressed by the surrounding jagged peaks. The most mesmerising views come from the air, but there are also some truly spectacular views to be enjoyed on terra firma too - if you put in a little effort.
Most people swing by Franz Josef for a night to take a look at the glacier before moving on, but we’re here to tell you they are missing out. Those who spend a little extra time will discover an electric blue gorge, glow worm tunnel, one of NZ’s longest swing bridges, mirror lakes and so much more. And as most people do not delve deeper into the area you often get them all to yourself.
Here’s the best things to do in Franz Josef including lots of lesser known spots.
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1: Soar over the glacier
2: Marvel at the electric blue water in Callery Gorge
3: Wade through the Glow Worm Tunnel
4: Soak in the rainforest hot springs
5: Cross one of NZ’s longest swing bridges
6: Marvel at the rainforest glow worm colony by night
7: Observe the rarest kiwis in NZ - the Rowi
8: Admire the perfect reflections at Lake Matheson
9: Take on the challenge of Alex’s Knob for an incredible glacier view
10: Catch a sunset at Okarito Beach
11: Hike the otherworldly glacier
12: Check out the lesser known mirror lake
13: Search for wild seals
14: See Franz Josef as you’ve never seen it before from the Alpine Cinema
15: Dine with a side of local history
16: Have a picnic at Lake Mapourika
17: Take in the amazing mountain panorama from Okarito Trig
18: Get off the beaten track at the hidden mountain lake
18 Amazing things to do in Franz Josef
1. Soar over the glacier
If you’re going to splurge on a scenic flight somewhere on your trip, then Franz Josef is the place to do it. The glacier is long and steep, and the surrounding jagged mountains make for an exceptionally dramatic flight. Sometimes even white knuckle as you soar so close to the peaks! Many flights will also offer the chance for a short snow landing.
Ours only gave us five minutes, which isn’t a long time, but it does allow you to briefly admire the spectacular scenery whilst being fully immersed in it.
If you want to really explore you’ll need to do one of the more expensive glacier hiking trips.
Our flight was 20 minutes long including the snow landing and it was a truly awe-inspiring experience. If we’d have had a bigger budget, I would have loved a longer flight covering both Franz and Fox Glaciers, but 20 minutes is still totally worth it.
A word of caution: if a scenic flight is top of your list, book it as early into your stay as possible. Flights are regularly cancelled and you’ll want to factor in some leeway here.
2. Marvel at the electric blue gorge
You’ve probably heard of the Haast Blue Pools (near Wanaka) and Hokitika Gorge, but few people realise Franz Josef has its very own electric blue gorge.
We didn’t see another soul on our visit to Callery Gorge which was hard to believe because it really is breathtaking.
The water colour is utterly beautiful and you can admire it from a swing bridge or down at the water’s edge. It’s an easy 30-40 minute walk through pretty rainforest to get there and if you’re lucky you might even spot a cheeky Chamois!
You can read all the details in our Callery Gorge guide.
3. Wade the glow worm tunnel
Another of Franz Josef’s lesser known attractions is also one of my favourites: the Tatare Tunnel. Visiting the old gold mining tunnel is a fun adventure which does require getting your feet wet - but only around ankle deep.
The 400m long tunnel is pitch back and once inside all you’ll hear is the sound of the gentle drips coming from the ceiling, which is pretty atmospheric.
Once you’re towards the end of the tunnel turn your torch off and let your eyes adjust.
You’ll find yourself staring up at what looks like a starry night sky. The glow worms are not in huge numbers (or weren’t on our visit), but there are many clusters of 20-30 at a time and the setting is lots of fun, not to mention you can enjoy it without a guide!
You can read our full glow worm tunnel guide here.
4. Soak in the rainforest hot springs
If you’re ready for a bit of rest and relaxation then head to the Franz Josef hot springs. There are several pools of varying temperatures and the rainforest setting is lovely. It’s also a great wet weather activity because canopies offer shelter from the rain.
We visited the public pools but did take a look at the private ones too. Our recommend for a private experience would be to head to the new Waiho Hot Tubs.
These wood fire tubs are in private spots scattered in a rainforest setting and offer a much more picturesque experience than the ones at the main pools. We had it on our list to try out but sadly didn’t make it this time. I already can’t wait to go back to Franz Josef and test them out though!
5. Cross one of NZ’s longest swing bridges
I love swing bridges and the Roberts Point swing bridge is one of the best I have ever been on! The bridge is over 100m long and gently sways as you cross - fun or unnerving depending on your outlook!
It’s very narrow which makes it feel more adventurous than say those on the Hooker Valley Track.
The view from the bridge is also fabulous, with numerous waterfalls and mountains.
The swing bridge is located along the Roberts Point Track, which is a great hike but not for everybody as it does have a fair amount of scrambling towards the end.
This swing bridge is before all that though, and it’s a fairly easy hike with little in the way of climbing. The rocks and tree roots you walk over are similar to that which you find on most NZ walks.
It’s 5.8km return and also covers two more swing bridges. You can read our full trail guide here.
6. Delight in the rainforest glow worm colony by night
If you liked the sound of the glow worm tunnel, then we’d highly recommend also venturing out into the rainforest at night. The Terrace Walk is a great choice, with its easy flat gravel path and relative shelter from the elements due to the forest canopy.
It’s not one of those walks where you are heading for a particular spot, glow worms are scattered throughout the trail. You’ll need to frequently turn your torch off in order to let your eyes adjust and then you’ll see the bush twinkle with little blue lights which almost give it a Christmassy feel. It’s magical.
Sometimes the glow worms can be quite set back in the bush, but an excellent place to get up close and personal is 160m into the track. Look for the side trail on your right which takes you to a large bush that is covered in glow worms.
Just remember not to shine light on them, not only will they stop glowing but it can stop them attracting food and they can actually die. Lights off is when the true magic happens anyway as your eyes need true darkness to see a fraction of the glow worms around you.
If you’re basing yourself at Fox Glacier there is a very similar glow worm track there too, the Minnehaha Walk.
7. Observe the rarest kiwis in NZ
Kiwis are notoriously difficult to spot in the wild and none more so than the Rowi - the rarest kiwi in the world, with an estimated population of just 500 birds.
If you’d like to support the local Rowi and observe them at close quarters then head to the West Coast Wildlife Centre. They work to raise Rowi and release them into the wild when they are big enough to fight off stoat attacks.
It’s a very worthwhile cause to support and in doing so you can visit the nocturnal kiwi house, which is where the chicks go before release.
If you want to go much more in depth then we’d recommend taking the backstage tour, which is what we did.
You’ll learn about how the eggs are collected, incubated and raised, as well as see some of the baby chicks (in season, somewhere between September to March but check before you book to be sure). We didn’t see the babies as winter is not the right time, but we really enjoyed the experience nonetheless.
You’ll also get the chance to meet some of the resident Tuatara which are extinct in the wild (aside from a predator free island).
In addition to the centre, there is also a tour that runs in Okarito (not related to the sanctuary) that offers the chance to see wild kiwi but we haven’t personally done this one yet.
A Tuatara
Snag a deal
We booked our visit to the Kiwi Centre through BookMe, as it seems to offer the best deals in Franz Josef. The ticket includes the backstage tour as well, so check out their latest prices below:
8. Admire the perfect reflections at Lake Matheson
A 30 minute drive close to the village of Fox Glacier, you’ll find one of the most beautiful lakes in New Zealand.
On calm days you will see Aoraki Mount Cook and the surrounding mountain range perfectly reflected in the water. It’s a wonderful sight and an absolute must do when visiting Franz Josef.
We’d recommend doing the full (easy) lake circuit walk which is 4.5km, but if that sounds too far then you want to head to the viewpoint known as Reflection Island. This is by far the best view of the lake for getting those mirror images.
Sunrise and sunset are great times to visit, but there’s more to it than that regarding conditions to make sure you see the reflection. We’ve covered all of this and more in our Lake Matheson guide.
9. Take on the challenge of Alex Knob for an incredible glacier view
Whilst there are several short walks in town which offer a distant view of the glacier, none quite have the wow factor. For that you need to put in the hard yards - or take a scenic flight!
The hike to Alex Knob is uphill almost all of the way and not a short walk clocking in at just over 17km, but rest assured, your every last step is rewarded when you get to that panorama at the top.
The view of Franz Josef Glacier is out of this world and the whole mountain range is simply spectacular. And that’s only in one direction, look behind you and you’ll see rolling hills and sparkling coastline.
To say it’s a hard spot to leave would be an understatement.
Whilst the hike is long and has a lot of climbing to do, there isn’t any tricky terrain or scrambling and you’ll pass through pristine rainforest which echoes with the sound of Kea calling overhead.
You can read our full trail guide to Alex Knob here, along with details on the side trail to Wombat Lake. If you only have time for one big hike and you’re weighing up Alex Knob and Roberts Point, we have the low down for you in this post.
10. Catch a sunset from Okarito Beach
Okarito is a tiny coastal village with a lot of great activities on offer, including a wonderful long beach. It’s a fabulous place to watch one of those famous West Coast sunsets.
It tends to be pretty quiet, but if you do find it busy on your visit, there is plenty of room to spread out and find your own private spot!
The tall headland on the left adds a bit of drama to the scene and if you look behind you you’ll also see the tops of the snow-capped mountains.
If you have kids or just young at heart, there’s also a tree with several swings and rungs to climb, which we’ve taken to calling the ‘tree of fun’.
Just watch out for sandflies as they are present on the beach (although less so in winter). Okarito Beach is a 25 minute drive from Franz Josef, and has several walking tracks as well as a wetlands area if you have more time.
11. Hike the otherworldly glacier
If you want to really get up close and personal with Franz Josef Glacier then you’ll need to take one of the guided tours. As the glacier has receded so much in recent years you can now only get there by helicopter.
The upside is that the helicopters not only give you an incredible scenic flight, but they also get you up to the most pristine part of the glacier really quickly. Up there you’ll find ice caves, crevasses and blue ice tunnels (although features change due to the fast moving nature of the glacier).
I have hiked on Franz Josef before and it was a brilliant experience but it was quite some time ago. We’ve recently hiked on the Tasman Glacier at Aoraki Mount Cook and our pictures are from there to give you an indicator of what the experience is like.
Hopefully one day I’ll get to hike on Franz again and will update this section! In the meantime this tour gets rave reviews and includes entry to the Franz Josef hot pools.
12. Check out the far lesser known mirror lake
If you love Lake Matheson then visiting the little known Peters Pool in Franz Josef is a must. On a still day this small kettle lake displays a mirror image of the glacier and snow-capped mountains, and you’re very likely to get it to yourself.
It’s just a 600m (each way) easy walk to get there on a well graded gravel path through the rainforest. We visited in winter and the lake was partially frozen, but you could still see half the reflection and it really was incredible.
At any other time of year you will be able to enjoy the full reflection it all its glory. You’ll want a still day as ripples on the water will spoil the mirroring effect.
The walk begins from the Glacier car park and can be combined with a visit to the Robert Point swing bridge.
13. Look for seals on a wild and remote beach
If you’re feeling up for a bit of an adventure then head to Gillespies beach, a 45 minute drive from Franz Josef (close to Lake Matheson). From here you can take the walking track past spectacular mountain views and into the forest, where you’ll find an old miners tunnel with a great viewpoint at the end.
Continuing through the forest does require traversing some large muddy sections (this is the West Coast afterall), but it’s well worth it when you arrive at a wild and rugged driftwood strewn beach.
Seals at Kaikoura
You can then traverse the beach in search of seals which are most numerous in winter, but can be seen at other times of year too. Full disclaimer, we didn’t find the seals but we realised afterwards that we hadn’t gone far enough.
We detail the full story in this post so the same doesn’t happen to you! Don’t miss the superb view of Fox Glacier at the Peak Viewpoint directly on route to Gillespies beach.
14. See Franz Josef as you’ve never seen it before at the Alpine Cinema
The alpine cinema is another great thing to do in Franz Josef on a rainy day, although I don’t say that to diminish it as just for wet weather - it’s a must when visiting Franz.
The comfy cinema screens a 35 minute movie all about the local area and the footage is simply phenomenal. We watched it on our last morning and loved picking out all the places we’d been, as well as adding plenty of new spots to our list for next time.
If you didn’t have one of the scenic flights on your bucket list, you will after watching this movie! It’s brilliantly put together and I actually enjoyed it even more than the similar movie on Fiordland which you can see in Te Anau.
At time of writing tickets are $15 and the cinema is located in the Heli Services NZ centre on the main high street.
15. Dine with a side of local history
Our favourite place to eat in Franz Josef is Alice May. This cosy restaurant has great food, especially the dessert, as well as the best coffee in town.
In fact, even if you don’t go for dinner, pop in for a late afternoon coffee and dessert, which is what we did after hiking Alex Knob and it was the perfect pick me up!
The staff are super friendly and the owner is one of the grandchildren of Alice May who has quite the life story.
After shooting her lover, she was sentenced to hard labour for the rest of her life, but the story didn’t end there as people began campaigning for her release. I’ll let you read all the nitty gritty details when you get there!
16. Have a picnic at Lake Mapourika
Lake Mapourika is a beauty, whether you go for sunset, in the early morning to witness the mysterious fog, or in the middle of the day for a picnic.
There are a couple of access points but the area with all the facilities is Otto/McDonalds camping area on the eastern side of the lake.
All but one of the picnic tables are set back from the water so try and snag that one if you can. You can also take a dip here - and before you think that the water is freezing, as it’s no longer fed by the glacier, the water is actually relatively warm!
It’s also a good spot for birdwatching and kayaking - the kayaking is yet another thing on our list for next time!
17. Take in the amazing mountain panorama from Okarito Trig
You'll need a clear day for this one because the view from the top of Okarito Trig is sensational.
The snow-capped Southern Alps almost look like a painting, and you get a great view of both Aoraki - Mount Cook and Franz Josef Glacier. You can also see a pretty blue lagoon and several wild west coast beaches.
The walk to get there is 4km return and though it's almost all uphill on the way, it's a very well-maintained path, which makes it fairly easy. The reward is definitely worth the effort.
You can read more details on the track here.
18. Get off the beaten track at the hidden mountain lake
Whilst the wonders of Lake Matheson are very well known, few people realise there's a second mirror lake which branches off the main circuit walk. Gorgeous Lake Gault would be considered a must see destination if it wasn't so close to Lake Matheson, but that works in your favour because you're likely to get it all to yourself. We couldn't believe how lucky we were to sit surrounded by so much beauty and share it only with the local kea.
In the right conditions you'll see a perfect reflection of Aoraki Mount Cook and the surrounding Southern Alps, a truly spectacular sight.
The walk to get to Lake Gault is 8.6km return and does have a fair amount of uphill track on the way, but it's very well graded and straightforward. You can read all the details on exact conditions needed to get the reflection here.
Where to stay in Franz Josef
Aspen Court Franz Josef
We’ve stayed in several places in Franz Josef in the past but we won’t be staying anywhere other than Aspen Court from now on. The motel rooms (we stayed in the one bedroom apartment) are large and spotlessly clean with small kitchenettes (including two hobs) so self catering is easy.
The spa baths are the perfect spot to wind down after a big day exploring and there is actual central heating - none of those less than stellar heat pumps here.
It’s right in town, yet quiet, and the view from the bedroom (in the one beds) is out onto a sea of tree ferns. I kept the blinds up and slept looking at the stars!
You can check out the prices and other reviews on:
Also just in case there’s any doubt - we paid full price for our room : )
YHA Franz Josef
If you’re on a budget then the YHA Franz Josef is ok. To be honest it’s not one of my favourite hostels but it does have kitchen facilities and it’s clean and central. It’s the best budget option in the area which offers private rooms and dorms.
You can check out the prices and other reviews on:
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