Theth’s Blue Eye is a vision: a powerful waterfall cascades into an iridescent blue pool partially shrouded by woodland. It’s like a scene straight from a children’s storybook. The water is a vivid blue whether in shadow or sunshine, but if you want to be truly dazzled then definitely pick a sunny day.
Swimming here is an absolute dream but you’ll need to be prepared for glacial temperatures!
The Blue Eye has made it onto pretty much everyone’s must do list nowadays, so it’s a hugely busy spot. If like us, you’re crowd averse, we have you covered on how to beat the crowds in the notes below.
Tips for visiting the Blue Eye
We’re going to cover all the details on the walking track and swimming at the eye, but first here are some quick tips to help you get a snapshot of what it’s like to visit.
1. It’s become exceptionally popular
We’d heard that Theth’s Blue Eye was a lot quieter than the Blue Eye in the South of Albania, but that is no longer the case.
Theth’s Blue Eye was exponentially more busy on our visit, probably in part due to the fact you can still swim there. We’d go so far as to say it’s one of the most popular spots in the whole of Albania.
Swimming in the Blue Eye Theth at 9.30am
If you want to be there alone in peak season, you need to be coming around 6-7am. Even then, there will likely still be one or two people around.
However, if you don’t mind a handful of people you can visit up until around 10-10.30am. For us, between 9am and 10am there was never more than five people at any one time. It picked up a little from 10am onwards and by 11.30am there was well over 100 people and more and more people were walking up as we were walking back down.
The Blue Eye Theth at 11.30am
The pool and area around the pool is small and it got very crowded.
Late afternoon will be quieter, but we stayed very close to the Blue Eye and people were still walking back at 8pm, so unless you luck out big time there will still be people around late into the day.
2. The walk is not as easy as people think
The walk to the Blue Eye is not difficult, but it’s not a walk in the park either.
We met so many people who were hiking up as we were walking back, and for many it was a struggle in the intense heat. On that note, it was a freak 35C day, which is hot for Theth, but even so.
The walk has a significant amount of elevation gain and some rough rocky patches.
That’s not to say everyone finds it hard by any means, but many people were expressing how much harder it was than expected.
If you are concerned we’d recommend coming early in the day so you can do the uphill section in the shade, the hike back is almost entirely downhill, so it’s much easier in the main heat of the day.
We’d also recommend wearing proper shoes/sandals. You don’t need hiking boots, but you’ll be a lot better off walking in trainers or shoes than flip flops!
3. The water is icy cold
Most people managed around 20 seconds in the pool before beating a hasty retreat. The water is a chilly 4C - 6C year round and it was still only at 4C when we visited in early July. For reference: I did a ‘cold plunge’ in an Iceland spa and that was 12C!
However, I did see most people make the error of putting their feet in for a while first. Rather than helping, this actually freaked them out because your feet will be one of the most uncomfortable parts of your body when in the water (usually along with your hands). Best not to let them get super numb and then try and swim!
Personally, I find if you just control your breathing it’s actually fun to swim in such cold water. It is a shock at first, and your body is likely to experience a type of pins and needles sensation all over, but breathing deeply and calmly really helps. Then you can have a proper swim and feel amazing afterwards!
I don’t want to encourage rushing in though as cold water shock is always a possibility, albeit unlikely, so if you struggle to cope with cold water, then the quick in and out for 20 seconds might be the best option!
4. Sun doesn’t hit the majority of the pool until after 10am (summer)
I want to start by saying that the Blue Eye in the morning is still exquisite and very blue. It’s also one of the few waterfalls in the world we’ve been to where having part shadow part sun on the pool actually looked ok in photos, so you absolutely do not need to go later in the day when it’s more crowded.
However, if you have your heart set on having the majority of the pool in the full sun for ultimate dazzle then you want to stay until at least 10.15am in summer (I can’t speak for winter!).
This actually worked out great for us as we arrived at 9am, had it super quiet for a while but also got a good experience and slightly better photos around 10.15am.
It didn’t change as much as I thought it would by 11.30am and the crowds became dire, so I would definitely aim for that early window. We’d recommend coming earlier than 10.15am to allow for the fact it could get even more popular than it was when we visited and therefore people might start coming earlier.
In the afternoon, part of the pool will fall into shadow again, so I don’t think there’s a perfect time for lighting. You need to find the balance between light and crowds!
5. There are other pools on the same walking trail
The other main swimming and jumping spot on the trail is located 265m before the Blue Eye. This is likely to be quiet or even empty if you’re passing by in the morning. However, by 11am it was also extremely busy on our visit. The water is gorgeous and great for swimming, that is if you can catch a break between jumpers who leap from the rickety wooden bridge above.
There are other more secluded pools much closer to the trailhead, and though most are more plunge pools than somewhere you can swim properly, they are quiet and spectacular. And the reality is that most people do not swim in the Blue Eye anyway, they dip in and out as quickly as possible, so the plunge pools will be fine for most people.
You can read more about these pools here.
6. A shuttle can knock off the first 1.2km of the walk
There is a private car park located just over 1.2km from the offical Blue Eye trailhead. I am not sure if you have a 4WD if you can pay to use it yourself, but the taxi shuttles use it. It knocks off an easyish section of the walk, though it would save a bit of uphill.
We asked a driver on the way back down what he was charging and he said 3000 Lek (30 Euros) per person back to Theth which seemed really expensive. You can probably get it cheaper from Theth when you have the ability to barter and you’d be better using it on the way there which is uphill.
If anyone knows more about the pricing, or if you can pay to park your own 4WD here, please let us know in the comments so we can update the guide.
The walk to the Blue Eye, Theth
The stats
Distance: 2.6km each way
Elevation gain: 175m
Difficulty: Moderate
Trailhead: Blue Eye Car Park: Ndërlysaj
Summary: The walk to the Blue Eye does have some flat sections and a bit of descending, but the majority of the way to the eye is uphill.
There are two track options right at the start, one is via an unsealed road and one goes up via the wooden bridge above the Vaskat Nderlysaj Canyon pool. The latter is rockier and steeper but cuts a few hundred metres off the distance mentioned in the stats above.
The slightly longer but easier option is via the wide gravel road which converges with the shorter route later on. From here it becomes a narrow dirt track. At one point the dirt path splits and while both trails lead to the eye, one is easier than the other.
The harder route is basically all rocks which is slower going. We’ll note where the split is in the track notes so you can choose the route you’d prefer. There is shade from tree cover for some of the walk, but also large exposed sections and many people struggled with this when going uphill in the intense heat of the sun.
Starting the trail: along the gravel road to the private car park
From the Blue Eye Car Park in the village of Ndërlysaj you head immediately uphill on the gravel/rubbly road (there is another slightly shorter route up to the right of the bridge, but it’s a bit steeper and rockier, you can read more about that here).
It’s a steepish start but the road flattens after 300m and you get a nice 600m respite before the climb continues, although this time it’s more gradual.
You start to get some lovely views very early on and another brief flat section just before the private car park, which you’ll reach 1.25km after starting the walk (or a bit less if taking the steeper route).
So though you can see there’s a bit of climbing in this first leg of the walk, there’s more flat track and therefore it’s only really worth getting the shuttle if you don’t have a car and are coming from Theth (though even then shuttles to the trailhead in Ndërlysaj are cheaper).
The real climb begins and how to take the easier route
Just past the car park the path forks and you take the right fork, heading uphill on a narrow track. The rest of the walk to the eye is on a dirt track which is rocky in places. The trail gets steeper now, earning you increasingly better valley views as you climb.
At the 1.6km mark, 350m beyond the private.car park, you will see the fork I mentioned in the summary. While both tracks take you to the eye, we did both and the path to the right is much easier. The left fork is rocky for the majority of the way which slows you down quite a bit.
The right fork is much less rocky and generally easier to walk on. After quite a steep 450m the path will ease to a gentle ascent again. The narrow track now feels high above the canyon and the cliff walls are impressive.
After another 250m very gradual climbing you will reach a small cafe, 2km into the walk.
This was closed in the early morning when we passed by, but in full swing on our way back down. There’s a particularly fun table and chairs located in a fab shady spot beneath the cliff wall that give it a cave like feel.
Arriving at the blue pool jump spot
From the small cafe all the hard work is behind you and most of the rest of the way to the Blue Eye is either flat or downhill. There’s a small section that is narrow, eroded and on a camber, which requires a little care, but the rest is plain sailing.
Roughly 200m from the cafe there’s another fork in the trail and we took the left path which will take you via the other well known blue pool.
There’s a 200m descent and then you will reach the rickety wooden bridge over the blue river. I rather liked the rustic nature of the bridge and the water below is exquisite. It was in shadow when we passed by just before 9am but still gorgeous. On the walk back we got to see it lit up by the sun and it was even more glorious.
The downside was that on the way back it was very crowded. It seemed like everyone left the eye and stopped here for ages on the way back down so it was always busy.
In terms of swimming you can walk into the water easily off the little stony beach to the left of the bridge. The water is cold, though it felt slightly warmer than the eye itself, or maybe I was just used to it by then?!
It’s shallow at first and then quickly deepens, you can swim under the bridge and through to the other side where you can also access the water though there is no beach. This side was very quiet whereas the ‘beach’ side was wildly busy.
People were almost constantly jumping so this is a more a jump spot than somewhere to swim unless it’s early in the morning or you’re not visiting in peak season.
The final stretch to the Blue Eye
From the little wooden swing bridge you are just 265m from the Blue Eye. Cross over the bridge, passing the grassy area and small makeshift bar and you will pick up the track on the right.
You’ll pass a traditional house with a stunning mountain backdrop.
It’s a gradual descent to the eye on a dirt track with a few rocks and tree roots.
You’ll arrive at a rocky area beside the waterfall. It’s easiest to access the pool on the far side, crossing the creek by continuing over some rocks, a wooden plank and small bridge. It can get a little slippery when wet but it’s not too difficult.
You’ll then arrive at the rocky ‘beach’ beside the falls where you’ll also find a couple of log seats.
Swimming at the Blue Eye
The Blue Eye is a true beauty with vibrant blue water and a powerful cascade. It’s surrounded by tree covered gorge walls giving it a storybook feel. Yes there’s a bridge and tiny drinks stand to the left, but look to the right and it’s natural beauty all the way.
Even if you don’t plan on swimming it’s so worth the walk to come and simply sit beside it, listening to the sound of rushing water and watching all the little wagtails (the majority of which vanish when the crowds arrive).
If you do want to swim, accessing the water is quite easy. It’s rocky underfoot which is a bit uncomfortable without water shoes, but then you can sit down and push straight off into deep water so there’s no awkward rock shuffling when inside the pool.
The waterfall was pumping on our visit which made for a really strong current, however, there was plenty of room to swim outside the current. I won’t go into the temperature as it’s covered above, but at 4C it will probably be one of the colder swims you’ve ever done in your life.
When you get out the pool you’ll be on such a natural high, though ideally you want to pick a sunny spot to warm up in after.
Aside from the current it’s a relaxing place to swim as there are no rocks or anything inside the water to bump into (although as with any wild swim spot this could change over time with big weather events). I absolutely loved my swims here, well at least before 11am anyway!
My final swim at 11.30am was carnage and not enjoyable at all. Purely because even though people were in and out the water lightning fast there were so many of them, as well as people jumping from the rocks perilously close to swimmers. Prior to that it was wild swimming paradise!
The cafe at the eye
Though I prefer everything to be left naturally, the cafe above the Blue Eye is relatively unobtrusive. It’s accessed via several steep metal staircases and offers a phenomenal view of the pool and waterfall.
It doesn’t have electricity so there are no hot drinks, but you can get limited hot food and of course cold drinks (many of which are cooled in the river!).
Given coming early means you are likely to miss your hotel breakfast, the cafe is a bit of a win on that front. I got a very generous serve of petula which were as good as any I’d had elsewhere and it was much needed fuel before more swimming!
Heading back
The way back to the car park is quicker and easier as after the initial bit of uphill, it’s mainly flat or downhill. You will pass cut downs to several more swimming holes and just beside the trailhead itself you can stop at the seriously breathtaking Vaskat Ndërlysaj Canyon pool.
This was actually one of my favourite swim spots in all of Albania, though more so on my second swim which was earlier in the morning as it does get busy in the afternoons when everyone has walked back from the Blue Eye.
Keep them wild
Please remember to take all rubbish with you and keep these places wild and pristine - as with anywhere in the outdoors. It’s important to leave them exactly as you found them so they will remain beautiful for generations to come.
Litter tends to breed litter, so if you do spot any and are able to pick it up and dispose of it outside the area, it will go a long way to keeping the area clean.
Where to stay in Theth
We stayed in Xhovani Zelna which is right by the entrance to the Blue Eye, surrounded by mountains and the stunning blue river. It was an ideal location for us wanting to get an early start on the walk to the Blue Eye. Unfortunately the rooms are very small, noisy and pretty bare bones.
The reviews are excellent so maybe we got unlucky with the noise issue but for us it wasn't the quiet location we were hoping for. You can see the latest reviews and availability by clicking the button below.
I did have my eye on Hotel Thethi which looked good on paper but we haven't seen it personally. Bujtina Terthorja and Villa Prelatheth get excellent reviews so it's also worth looking at those too.
