It looks like someone had big plans for Pirogoshi Cave; a good path, epic lookout platform and electrical cables inside the cave suggesting it was going to be properly illuminated. I don’t know what went wrong, but clearly the influx of visitors never happened and that makes for an even better experience for those that do make the effort.
You have all the infrastructure - well minus lighting in the cave as that doesn’t actually work! - and none of the crowds. It gives it something of an abandoned air which added a touch of mystery to the adventure.
And while we came for the cave, it was the views along the walking track that really blew us away. Amazing views are not hard to come by in Albania, but even then the mountains around Pirogoshi Cave stood out.
Even if there were no cave, the short walk alone would be well worth making the minor detour on route from Berat to Osumi Canyon.
I am a pretty big fan of caves and having just visited a fantastic one in Tirana, I had high hopes for Pirogoshi Cave. Although not on the scale of Pëllumbas Cave, it has some impressive formations and a whole lot of bats! If you love an offbeat adventure you’re going to enjoy this one.
Here’s everything you need to know to visit.
The walk to Pirogoshi Cave (Shpella e Pirogoshit)
The stats
Distance: 850m each way
Elevation gain: 85m
Difficulty: Easy, but not flat
Trailhead: Parking area on Rruga Nexhip Xhaja, Çorovodë
Summary: The walk to Pirogoshi Cave is all on a proper track, though the final slope up into the cave is on a rock slope which can be slippery. There is a handrail in place to help out if needed.
The path is easy to follow and in good condition with just a few rocky sections here and there - most notably when heading up onto the viewing platform. There is a little bit of uphill track but no long steep sections.
Once inside the cave there are some muddy areas so shoes with grip are going to be very useful here!
The access road
Let’s start with getting to the trailhead because it is located along a gravel road. Only the final 2.5km to the parking point is unsealed and it’s in pretty good condition.
It does wind uphill a little (but not steeply) and there are some potholes, but generally speaking this is a good gravel road.
I will caveat this by saying where we come from in Australia this would be considered a very good unsealed road, but if you’re not used to gravel roads you may find it less so.
With that said, as long as it’s dry it’s certainly not 4WD territory and I think most people will be comfortable driving it with care.
The place to park can be found here on Google maps. It’s roughly a 12 minute detour (each way) when on route between Berat (around a 1.5 hour drive away) and Osumi Canyon (around a 35 minute drive away).
The walk to Pirogoshi Cave
From where you park your car (just off the road before the entry barrier to the quarry) you pass around the barrier and then follow the obvious path through the quarry.
After 150m you will reach the narrow gravel track and this marks the end of the quarry and the start of the proper hiking track.
The views even from early on are gorgeous, but the majesty ramps up considerably as you continue along the track.
The path is narrow but has a railing running alongside it so it never feels precarious.
There are a few minor undulations and some flat track as you make your way towards the lookout platform. As you round the corner you’ll see an incredible view with two very striking mountains separated by a large cleft and you can hear the river and cascades far below you.
We were walking close to sunset and the soft golden light made the views even more remarkable.
You will see the lookout platform ahead and reach it 550m from the point you left your car.
The final few metres up to the platform is a touch steep and rocky, but well tiered so getting up is easy, if a little less manicured than the rest of the path.
The platform is huge, almost comically big considering we were the only ones there. The panoramic views are sublime and I can see why someone clearly thought it was going to be popular!
From the lookout you can see the cave you’re heading for on the left as well as two little caves in the mountains ahead which look very atmospheric but are, alas, inaccessible.
From the platform the trail heads downhill, around the cliffside and arrives at the first little cave just under 200m later.
The entry to the main cave is 40m further on and accessed by walking up the rock slope. The rock here is a touch polished and a little slippery, but the sturdy wooden fence is there to offer stability if needed!
Entering Pirogoshi Cave
The opening to Pirogoshi Cave is large and the dirt here is very stable so it’s easy to access. Light penetrates quite far into the cave so the first chamber is easy to explore even without a torch.
There’s a little graffiti around the cave mouth, but it mercifully stops as you get further in.
In terms of darkness further into the cave, it does get pitch black and this was the moment we wish we had a proper torch like we did in Tirana. It really does make all the difference.
Yes the torch on your phone can get you through the cave, but it’s hard to illuminate the formations and really take it all in. Still if it’s all you’ve got then it’s still going to work.
As you reach the darker reaches of the cave you start to head uphill and there are some great stalagmites and stalactites as well as some good flowstone.
There are also plenty of bats and they are pretty loud and active. I love bats but if you don’t it may be a bit of a trial to go much further!
We continued through the cave for about 80m, we don’t think it went further, but our torch lights were so faint it was hard to be completely sure.
We stopped only because the guano got so thick and squishy that the chance of skidding and landing in a big fat pile of bat shit was becoming far more real than we would have liked!
I think we saw it all anyway as we did get through the first very ‘muddy’ section but I would probably have gone a bit further with a better torch.
When you’re ready to leave the cave you retrace your steps back the same way.
Where to stay in Berat
Citadel Heritage Hotel
We stayed at the Citadel Heritage Hotel just a few minutes drive from the old town of Berat. Though the area directly surrounding the hotel didn’t have the charm of the old town, that meant it was really quiet which was a major priority for us. The hotel is very modern, clean, comfy and calm.
The bathroom is great with a powerful shower and the wifi works well. There’s even a gorgeous swimming pool if you want a break from exploring.
It’s one of the best hotels we stayed in during our five weeks in Albania and though it was one of the most expensive, it’s still very good value for money. We would and no doubt will stay there again!
You can check out the reviews and prices on:
If you have your heart set on the charming part of the city (and I did too before getting tired of all the noise in the city centres!) then the other place I was looking at which I think would still be quiet was Villa Art Berat Castle.
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With cool formations and hundreds of bats, Pirogoshi Cave is a must do on route between Berat and Osumi Canyon. We’re sharing everything you need to know about the access road, walking trail and what it’s like to explore the cave.