Hiking among glaciers: The Iceline Trail, Yoho National Park

If you’re looking for one of the greatest day hikes near Banff (and possibly in the whole of Canada) then make sure you head to Yoho National Park for the Iceline Trail. This hike has it all: epic views, ever changing landscapes, waterfalls, ridgelines, stunning lakes and the chance to walk beside a huge glacier. 

It’s hard to really convey just how good this hike is, so much so that we’d put it in our list of favourite day hikes in the world!

So after an introduction like that, what are you waiting for?! 🤣 Here’s everything you need to know about hiking the Iceline Trail and why it’s a must for your Banff itinerary.

Rock hopping along the spectacular Iceline Trail

Rock hopping along the spectacular Iceline Trail


The Iceline Trail - Yoho National Park

Preparation

Before you start, be prepared. This trail is pretty steep at first and if you want to do the loop - and you should - goes for over 17 km, making it a fairly long hike. We managed to hike it in under six hours - which is about average. Some people did it in five hours, others in seven. In the summer this means you don’t need to start at the crack of dawn, but we wouldn’t recommend starting much later than midday!

There are two ways of doing this hike: anti-clockwise (heading north first) for a gradual uphill climb and steep decent; or clockwise (heading south first) for a steep start but a gradual descent. We recommend heading clockwise to get the steep stuff out the way at the start and see the glacier early on.

Climbing a small peak off the Iceline Trail

Climbing a small peak off the Iceline Trail

Whist this is counter to what we often say, the alternative is to start with 12km of hiking through the forest. Then you’ll have to navigate a rocky, slippery and steep descent on tired legs! We also felt we could pick up time if we spent too long around the glaciers on the descent through the forest section if necessary.

The trail maps around the area are a little confusing and we had to keep asking people where to start the trail. You have to park at the main car park for Takakkaw Falls (other people parked on the road, but you can get towed as this is reserved for guests of the Whiskey Jack Hostel only).

Be sure to check the weather before you start as you should avoid this hike in rainy or particularly windy weather. The Iceline Trail is incredibly exposed and has sheer drops in parts - you will feel the full force of the elements and it is potentially dangerous in poor weather.

Read next: Bucket list things to do in Lake Louise


Iceline Trail stats

Distance: 17km
Elevation:
687m
Type of trail: Loop (you can make a shorter out and back route if you prefer)
Time taken: 5.5 hours

Starting the Iceline trail

The hike starts by heading out of the car park and taking a sharp right, following the river on your left as if you are going to see the falls. Keep on this track, ignoring the bridge (or pop by the falls first) and heading onwards. Soon the trail will head to cross the road, this is where all the cars for the hostel are parked and is the official start of the trail.

Takakkaw Falls at the start of the Iceline trail

Takakkaw Falls at the start of the Iceline trail

Cross the road and look out for a sign on your right (it is about 50-100m before the hostel). This is where the uphill slog begins and doesn’t stop for just under four kilometres.

The trail follows switchbacks and is in decent condition. You’ll have the occasional gap in the trees to see Takakkaw Falls and just how quickly you’re climbing! The forest is quite different to the others in the Rockies as it felt a lot more open which was very motivating for each view of the falls felt like you’d made significant gains in elevation. This is the hardest section on the whole track in terms of gradient so don’t be put off, it’s much easier after this initial climb. There are a couple of other trails that branch off in the forest so just keep following signs for the Iceline Trail which were always to the right.

After around an hour you’ll soon lose the forest altogether and enter a rocky landscape. This is the start of the most spectacular section of the Iceline Trail. 

The forested section before you reach the big views on the Iceline Trail

The forested section before you reach the big views on the Iceline Trail


Heading onto the truly spectacular Iceline Trail

The start of the trail beyond the forest is very pretty, but not yet truly out of this world. Don’t worry, that’s coming.

The view of Takakkaw Falls is incredible though and suddenly that immense waterfall looks tiny from your new perspective. Getting here was a “pinch me” moment and the reason why we love mountain top hiking. It’s worth having a break to catch your breath and take in the views.

Iceline Trail: Takakkaw Falls from above

Iceline Trail: Takakkaw Falls from above


Onto the Glaciers

The climbing hasn’t finished yet, but it is more gradual than you’ve tackled so far. The trail continues up a rocky path for another couple of kilometres before turning a corner and reaching a truly awe inspiring landscape - you are walking right next to the ginormous Emerald Glacier! We weren’t the only ones waxing lyrical at the next section of the track, one woman was brought to tears!

There aren’t many trails in the world where you can get this close to a glacier on a mountain and it reminded us of the Skyline Trail in Mount Rainier but with far fewer crowds (and that made all the difference).

The first lake on the Iceline Trail

The first lake on the Iceline Trail

The hike then follows the glacier for another kilometre or so, crossing rivers and taking you to a couple of blue glacier lakes. At times it felt like we were hiking a “Rocky Mountains Greatest Hits” trail. The walking is easy on this section and almost all flat.

Towards the end of this section just before the second glacial lake is a little peak you can climb which offers some more fantastic views. It looks a lot more precarious than it actually is and only takes a few minutes to climb, but makes for an awesome photo!

Iceline Trail: The small peaks

Iceline Trail: The small peaks

Hiking beside glaciers on the Iceline Trail

Hiking beside glaciers on the Iceline Trail

The second lake

The second lake


Descending on the Celeste Lake Trail

Soon you’ll reach the second lake and a junction. You can continue straight on to Stanley Mitchell Hut (which you can stay at if you have a reservation, capacity 22 people) or right to start heading down via the Celeste Lake Trail (for the 17km loop version).

The descent on the Celeste Lake trail is excellent, with a great path all the way, making for some very quick kilometres. You soon enter a lush green meadow - quite the contrast to the Iceline trail! Be cautious here as it felt like prime bear territory, so make lots of noise to let them know you’re there!

Iceline Trail: the meadow on the descent to Celeste Lake

Iceline Trail: the meadow on the descent to Celeste Lake

It’s not long before you reach Celeste Lake, a beautiful lake in the meadow, we didn’t see another soul on this whole section of track and it was a wonderfully peaceful experience. However, our favourite was the next lake which wasn’t even marked on our map! The stunning blue water looked untouched and miles away from civilisation. Fringed by the trees and mountains, it felt like our kind or paradise.

Iceline Trail: the lake that wasn’t even on our map!

Iceline Trail: the lake that wasn’t even on our map!


Laughing Falls and the end of the trail

The forest throughout the entire descent is absolutely beautiful and well worth making the longer loop for rather than choosing a shorter out and back version of the hike. After the lakes you’ll cross a bridge over a roaring river and reach a junction with what felt like 1,000 choices! For the 17km loop take the right to Laughing Falls which is a few kilometres down the trail (you could make an even longer loop taking in Twin Falls if you have time).

Iceline Trail: walking beside the roaring river

Iceline Trail: walking beside the roaring river

The path briefly follows the river before heading back into the forest. After a few more switchbacks you’ll hear another waterfall and round the corner to see Laughing Falls.

We really liked this waterfall as it was nestled among the trees and rocks, making it a picture perfect spot. There’s a campsite there as well - possibly the greatest spot for a campsite we’ve ever seen. There are outhouses here but bring your own toilet paper!

Iceline Trail: the stunning Laughing Falls

Iceline Trail: the stunning Laughing Falls

From here it’s an easy almost flat 4km hike back to the car park. The trail follows the river for a while before veering off into the forest again. If you time it right, you’ll arrive at the section before Takakkaw Falls a little before sunset. Just before the sun heads behind the mountains, the falls light up a rainbow colour, a stunning phenomenon we’d never seen before and something we had to sit and watch until it eventually disappeared as quickly as it had arrived. A spectacular ending to a spectacular hike.

Iceline Trail: the amazing rainbow colours at Takakkaw Falls

Iceline Trail: the amazing rainbow colours at Takakkaw Falls


Essential information about the Iceline Trail

Getting to the Iceline Trail

The Iceline Trail starts from Takakkaw Falls in the heart of Yoho National Park. It is about a 1 hour 15 minute drive from Banff or one hour from Golden. Parking here can be tricky in the middle of the day, but if you’re patient a spot will open up. Just don’t park by the trail head down the road as you could get towed away. Instead use the Takakaw Falls car park for day use and walk to the trail head from there.


Time needed for the Iceline Trail

Don’t be put off by what a lot of people say (we were told we’d need 7-8 hours by some hikers on the trail) as you can complete the whole loop in less than six and we weren’t rushing. Just make sure you go via Celeste Lake and Laughing Falls, otherwise you may add on a lot more distance!

We started at 1pm and were finished about an hour before sunset.


Entrance Fees/Permits

The Iceline Trail doesn’t require a permit, but you’ll need to pay a fee for the national park (like any in Canada). You can buy a day pass for $9.80 CAD for an adult, or $19.60 CAD for a group.

Alternatively you can get the Canada National Parks Annual Pass for $136.40 CAD for a group and get entry to every national park in the country for a year.


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Are you planning a trip to The Rockies in Canada? Would you take on the Iceline Trail in Yoho National Park? Let us know in the comments below!


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