Tell anyone you’re going to the Flinders Ranges and inevitably you will be asked if you’re planning on walking up St Mary Peak. It’s the highest peak in the Flinders and has a reputation for being a bit of a toughie. As the peak itself is a sacred place for Aboriginal people, you are requested to walk only as far as the saddle - which is what we did.

The views are still fantastic and the walk is incredibly varied, with lots to recommend it beyond it being the tallest mountain in the area. If you love hiking - or you’re just looking for a bit of an adventure - the St Mary Peak hike is a must.

Here’s what to expect on the walk.

The St Mary's Walk Trail in Flinders Ranges

The walk up St Mary Peak

The two possible routes

Whichever route you decide to choose the walk is a fairly long one. You can either go directly from Wilpena Pound Resort up to the saddle on the steepest trail known as the Outside Track. This route is 6km (the peak is a further 1.6km each way, but it is requested that you don’t go beyond the saddle).

Alternatively you can take the longer and much less steep route from the resort, known as the Inside Track, which is 12km.

We chose to go up the steep route and down the shallower route, which is what we’d recommend. It’s much easier to go up the steep and sometimes rubbly terrain than it would be going down it, and then you have a long leisurely walk back when all the hard work is behind you.

As we walked back, we both agreed that the shallower route would feel way too long to get to the peak. You’d also have a much tougher descent, where you’d have to be watching your footing for around 3km.

We’ll share in detail the circuit route we used and if you want to use either trail as a return walk you’ll still get a good idea as to what it will be like.

The circuit route

Trail stats

Distance: 18km
Elevation: 522m
Difficulty: Moderate - Hard

This walk is one of the harder day walks in the area, as it combines some very steep sections with a fairly long distance, as well as throwing in some rocky patches to scramble up. It took us 4.5 hours to do the entire trail and we recommend leaving early to avoid the heat of the day if you’re hiking in the warmer months.

Starting the Outside Track

We weren’t sure what to expect from the Outside Track. We’d heard people say it was steep, but we didn’t know much more than that. We were pleasantly surprised to find that the walk begins in a shady forest and is really leisurely for quite some time.

Walking to St Mary Peak in Flinders Ranges

It’s also one of the most well signposted tracks we’ve ever been on, there are route markers counting you down to the peak every 200m, with blue arrows or reflectors inbetween - despite the fact there are rarely any places you could possibly go wrong!

It’s a pretty trail and it’s on dirt path, so footing is easy. There were lots of lizards when we were walking, including two cute Shinglebacks that we stood and watched amble along the path.

If you hear crashing through the trees you aren’t about to be bowled over by anything sinister, there are dozens of feral goats in the area. We saw lots of them run through the forest and up and down the hillsides. They’re really cute, although sadly they are considered pests.

All in all you have just over 4km of either flat or undulating trail through the forest, before you begin the climb.

Starting the climb

Once the climb begins, you have just 1.7km before you reach Tanderra Saddle. We assumed the markers were counting you down to the saddle as they don’t want you to walk to the peak, and we couldn’t believe it when we got to the saddle so quickly.

The first part of the climb is is a bit rocky and rubbly, but nothing tricky footing-wise. You start to get gratifyingly gorgeous views almost from the off and both St Mary Peak and the surrounding mountain range look absolutely spectacular.

We had quite gloomy, drizzly weather but it still looked incredible. The trail can be quite narrow at points, with a big drop to your right, but it never felt precarious.

The views from the hike up to St Mary Peak

The vegetation changes as you leave the forest and enter the scrub, which combined with the deep red sand and rock, made us feel like we’d been transported to Arizona. It’s a really beautiful area.

Although you are climbing for much of the way, there are quite a few short flat sections to catch your breath on, and you’ll end up stopping lots for photos anyway.

There are a couple of sections which are a little bit of a scramble, but nothing too difficult until 1.3km into the climb, just before the saddle itself.

At this point there is a very short but slightly exposed scramble. The moves are easy, but if you’re not used to it you may find it slightly unnerving.

It only lasts a minute though. After spending alot of time the previous year hiking in America I got really used to scrambling, but before that I would have found this section tough.

Once you’re over the scramble, you’re just 300m from the official saddle sign. The view is pretty good, but you get a better one just a little further along the trail, on the way to Wilpena Pound. You’ll see an obvious cut through on your left and there are a number of rocky ledges which give you a more expansive view.

Watch out if you sit down for a rest here - I leant my hand on a rock and a lizard came up through the crack and had a little nibble - which was a first for me!

From the saddle you can see the peak ahead of you, just 1.6km away. It was tempting to head for the top, but we didn’t want to climb a sacred peak and the walk is fantastic without ever going to the very top.

The Inside Track

The Inside Track is another wonderful trail and we think a much better alternative to returning the way you came. It is a long trail, but it’s very easy and relaxing, and allows you to see so much more of the park.

You’ll begin gently descending on a narrow path and whilst it’s rocky underfoot it’s not in any way slippery or difficult.

All the way along you get fabulous views of the mountains on both sides of the path, and St Mary Peak begins to look distant quite quickly.

We were walking in November and the track was lined on both sides with yellow flowers, which added even more colour to the already beautiful landscape.

After around 3.5km descending, you’ll reach the bottom of the Pound and head into the shady forest. The path is now 100% flat and even easier than the descent because the path is so good. It is a long walk through the forest which I found almost meditative.

I didn’t need to watch my feet and could simply relax and fully take in our surroundings. The forest is full of what look like really pretty purple flowers, but are actually weeds. I have to say they are the prettiest weeds I’ve ever seen though!

Af one point you’ll come to a very open patch of forest on the Pound floor and you are completely surrounded by mountains. Add to that large flocks of bright green Ringneck parrots and you have a very magical scene.

After roughly 5km in the forest you’ll come to Hills Homestead. As we neared the homestead we saw lots and lots of kangaroos, some of which were completely unfazed by our presence and came very close to the path.

We might have seen hundreds and hundreds of kangaroos over the years but it never gets old!

Hills Homestead to Wilpena Pound Resort

At the 15km mark you’ll reach Hills Homestead. The homestead was built in 1888 by the Hills family who were sheep farmers. It’s in quite good shape but you can’t go inside. There are lots of information boards sharing some of the stories of the family, which are well worth a read.

From the homestead you’re just 3.1km from Wilpena Pound Resort. You can take either the Top Track or the Sliding Rock Track, which converge 800m later.

We took the Sliding Rock route and it took you through some beautiful forest, over the creek and along the cliffside. It was shady and peaceful, and a lovely walk in its own right.

The final couple of kilometres are along a flat gravel track, which the shuttle bus runs along a few times a day. Despite that, it doesn’t in any way feel like a road and it’s a really lovely stroll, past a waterhole and along Pound Gap. It was the perfect easy-going finish to an absolutely fantastic walk.

All up, despite the length and the steep section to get up to the saddle, it’s not an overly challenging hike if you’re happy to walk for around 18km, and it’s definitely worth it!

Essential information about the St Mary Peak walk

Seasonal trail closures

This trail closes when the weather becomes too hot. Generally that is over the summer months of December - February but it’s worth checking with the the parks service to be sure if you’re planning a trip close to those dates.

National park entry fee

The St Mary Peak Trail is within the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, which requires a National Park Pass. You can buy a single day entry ($12.50 per vehicle), a 2 month multiple park entry pass ($50) or a 12 month pass ($112).

You can buy the pass from the visitors centre, or online through the South Australia Parks website.

Getting to the trailhead

The trail to St Mary Peak starts just outside the Wilpena Pound Resort (you can find the exact location on google maps by clicking here).

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