When we set off along the Basin Track we had no idea it was going to end up being one of our favourite walks in Ku-ring-gai. This fabulous loop track has it all: incredible views, pretty bushland, several stunning beaches and a the chance to be surrounded by dozens of wild wallabies.
It also feels like a bit of an adventure as you rock hop between the beaches. We were slightly out on the tide times and ended up with water up to our thighs, which provided lots of laughs. If you don’t want to get wet at all make sure you go bang on low tide!
Here’s what to expect on one of the best walks in Sydney.
The Basin and Mackerel Track
The stats
Distance: 7km
Elevation: 189m
Difficulty: Moderate
Type of trail: Circuit
This trail can only be done easily during low tide, otherwise the section between Currawong Beach and the Basin will be under water! We walked two hours before low tide and got pretty wet, at low tide you might end up still having to take your boots off.
This walk isn’t hard, however it takes longer than you might expect - primarily because of the low tide section, which involves clambering over and around the rocks. The rest of the walk is along service trails which are in good condition. We recommend allowing 2-2.5 hours for the circuit.
Starting the Basin Track
The walk begins on a fairly average fire trail. It’s the typical wide stony path that you get on many of the walks along the West Head Road.
We were walking just after some back burning had taken place so the bush on one side of the path was pretty burnt and there was a definite waft of char in the air.
After 300m you reach a turn off on your right for an Aboriginal engravings site.
The Aboriginal engravings site
Ku-ring-gai is well known for having really extensive Aboriginal art sites and this was the most impressive one we’ve seen so far.
The rocky area housing the engravings is huge and there are lots of different carvings, many of which are really well preserved.
You can see several people, as well as fish, wallabies and many more.
There are also some great information boards explaining more about the art work, which is something you don’t see at every site and brought the engravings to life.
After the engravings site you have 450m until you reach the turn off on your left for the Mackerel service trail.
Onto the spectacular lookout
The beginning of the Mackerel trail is relatively uninspiring and we didn’t have particularly high hopes the further we walked.
However, after ten minutes or so the bush started to get much prettier, and you could see glimpses of the ocean through the trees, as well as a sprinkling of wildflowers.
After just under 1.5km you come to a really beautiful lookout, with fabulous views over to the Barrenjoey Headland at Palm Beach, as well as over to Mackerel Beach.
There are lots of rocks you can sit on to enjoy the view and it’s an incredibly peaceful spot.
At this point our original plan was to walk back along the service trail and onto the Basin track down to the campground, but we saw another distinct path leading into the bush away from the lookout.
It was a proper bush track, rather than fire trail and we decided to follow it instead.
Through the bush to Currawong Beach
We quickly realised it was a good decision, the track is gorgeous with lots of dense foliage, and the occasional view out to the ocean.
The trail is flat at first and then starts to descend through the bush.
After 370m you will come to a sign which directs you to Currawong Beach to the right, it also mentions you can get to the Basin if it’s low tide.
The track gets narrower and the bush starts to take on jungly vibes, with Cabbage palms and other huge plants which sometimes almost block the path. It gets a little rocky in places but it’s still easy to descend.
After 230m the trail brings you out onto the beach and it’s a gorgeous sheltered one, which looks perfect for swimming (apart from the fact we did see the odd jelly!).
There are some holiday cottages behind the beach which look like a great spot to stay, although they are currently being renovated.
Rock hopping to the Basin campground
The beach and views were beautiful and it was pretty big at 400m long. At the far end there are some huge boulders, and with the dense forest backing the beach the whole scene reminded me of Jurassic Park!
At this point we knew we weren’t too many beaches away from the Basin. We arrived about two hours before low tide, but we decided to see whether we could make it round.
At first it was easy and we rock hopped our way along the first couple of beaches. When you do this trail, make sure you watch out for the bright green rocks which are slippery but other than that it’s easy enough.
Further along there were some sections which we couldn’t pass without getting into the water.
It started off knee deep and got to thigh high at points, but it was a warmish day and it didn’t bother us. We were just happy we were going to make it round.
The rock hopping section is 700m long in total. The final stretch of rocks over to the Basin were really slippery in places and I did nearly go over.
It’s manageable if you go carefully but it would definitely be easier to avoid it entirely at low tide.
The Basin campground
The walk to this point had already been fantastic, but it was made even more special when we got to the campground and were surrounded by dozens (literally!) of wallabies!
They were really relaxed, clearly used to being around people, and great to sit and observe. Most were content just grazing with the odd one deciding to poke around the solitary tent that was set up, probably looking for scraps!
It’s an absolutely idyllic spot, with the beach, wallabies and lots of birdlife. We wished we’d been able to set up camp too!
After hanging out with the wallabies for a while we met the one couple who were camping that night who seemed surprised to see us there without a tent.
It was then that they mentioned that the West Head gate was going to be locked in an hour. We hike in Ku-ring-gai all the time, but we’d completely forgotten about the gate.
There is nothing like a $50 fine to see you hiking faster uphill than you ever have before! We had 3km to walk and a 15 minute drive to do in an hour.
Unless you fancy doing an uphill sprint, make sure you leave more than an hour before the gate closes!
The Basin Track
The Basin Track leading from the campground begins as a road. As well as being incredibly steep, it has ridges in it which seemed to catch on the front of my boots, never actually tripping me up but always threatening to.
We didn’t have time to fully appreciate it, but the forest along the side of the road was stunning with lots of picturesque overhangs and really dense jungly plants.
For 1km it is really quite steep, luckily we were hiking close to sunset, so we didn’t have any intense sun which would have made it harder.
After that point you continue uphill for a little longer, but the gradient is much gentler and after a few hundred metres more the road gives way to fire trail.
The vegetation on either side of the track is pretty and we had the most amazing sky, which made what could have been quite a mundane section of the walk, absolutely beautiful.
After a time the walk flattens out completely and it’s an easy stroll back to your car. Luckily we made it back in 35 minutes, leaving us just enough time to drive out the park and avoid the fine!
All in all, this was an incredible walk, and one we’d highly recommend. Just remember to check the tide times so you can make it a full circuit.
Essential information about the Basin and Mackerel Circuit
Ku-ring-gaI National Park entry fee
All walks beginning on the West Head Road require paying the $12 a day vehicle entry fee. If you plan on visiting several NSW parks in a year you are better off buying the $65 annual pass, which covers all parks except Kosciusko.
Ku-ring-gai National Park opening times
The West Head Road has strict opening times and is enforced by a locked gate. If you get your car stuck and have to have the gate opened it’s a $50 fine. The timings vary slightly by season but broadly it’s sunrise to just after sunset. Check the times as you enter the park to avoid any issues.
The Basin campground
If you do want to stay at the campground you can book your spot on the parks website. It’s a huge campground which can accommodate 400 people. There are toilets, showers, BBQs, picnic benches and drinking water. It’s a lovely spot and you can get a ferry to Palm Beach if you don’t want to do the steep walk out with all your gear.
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